As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. Between the Latin and Ayurvedic, fenugreek has almost too many names to count: methi, methikaa, vastikaa, dipani, birds foot, Greek clover and so it goes on. Diptyque LEau de Neroli Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame "Used widely in perfumery, indole is often used to bring intrigue and a seductive edge to a scent," says perfumer John Gamba. Katy Perry Meow Jo Malone London Red Roses In Victorian times, tuberose symbolised dangerous pleasure and voluptuousness and thats pretty much what perfumers are aiming for, when they use it. As the demand for natural perfumes mounts - market research firm The NPD Group estimates sales of prestige natural fragrances climbed 32% last year - a debate is brewing among natural scent brands over what roles synthetic ingredients can play in formulations, if any. ), Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta 'Tobacco: loved by many when lit, smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp. You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. Notes are black cherry, almond, berries, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and black tea. Used shorthand for any perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources. And Anthemis nobilis Roman camomile, English camomile, true camomile, call it what you will is sweet and heady, though also with an apple-iness. 5. Petit-what? Dior Hypnotic Poison Popular brands and perfumes. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Laura Mercier Ambre Passion Caron Tabac Blond Its one of those Marmite perfumery ingredients, which people either swoon over or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs. We love what the nose Christine Nagel has to say about this ingredient: 'Honey has two facets - half devil, half angel. And there's whale fecal matter involved in this musky scent. Dior Bois dArgent It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). Guerlain Chant DArome Burberry Burberry Woman But its use goes way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by Greek explorers. Its intriguing. Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday). (Not only was black pepper ground onto food, though: it found its way into spells and was used as an amulet to protect against disease and other threats. An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. Herms Eau dOrange Verte The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. Oscar de la Renta Oscar Create a free Dossier Club account and start Nasomatto Absinth. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Cartier Baiser Vol A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). Myrrh A gum resin is produced from a shrub found in Arabia and East Africa to make Myrrh. 5 Eau Premiere (It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant.) Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. Guerlain Cuir Beluga By Kilian Back to Black Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse, The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. Tom Ford Caf Rose Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini As it ages, the smell matures and develops beautifully, and before it can be used perfumery, it must be diluted with alcohol. Fern blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance creation. Grossmith Betrothal In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Rather like grapefruit, its near-relation, pomelo is a brilliant, vibrant top note or heart note which adds citrussy sparkle to many perfumes, especially Colognes. Theres an intriguing back story to the naming of this plant, meanwhile. Today, limes are farmed in many places (South Asia, Florida, Italy, Cuba and Mexico), and to capture a limes fragrant bounty a process of expression (squeezing) or distillation can be used. The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (green) and ellai (leaf). Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Fendi Palazzo A sack of potatoes. You might think that the name has sexy overtones but not at all: allegedly the passionflower (a glorious blue/purple, twining vine) and passion fruit were named by Spanish Catholic missionaries who saw the flower as the symbol of the Passion of Christ, because the ring around its heart looks like the Crown of Thorns. A deeply intimate fragrance that's complex, vibrant, raw, spicy and sweet all at once. But perfumers wouldnt be without patchouli, for the richness that it gives to fragrances and not just those heady Ambres: patchouli makes its way into many chypre and powdery fragrances, swirling exotically alongside lavender, sandalwood, labdanum and bergamot, clove, clary sage, as well as vetiver. And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Chanel Eau de Parfum Este Lauder Sensuous Ineke Angels Trumpet Amouage Ciel Pour Femme Put a few leaves of lemon verbena, or Aloysia triphylla, in a cup, add boiling water and youve an incredibly refreshing drink. You can even choose from a range of bottle and cap combinations to make your new perfume look as unique as possible. When its first produced, its useless as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. All Maison Louis Marie products are phthalate-, paraben-, sulfate- and cruelty-free. Its the leaves and the stems which are used in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note. She was the first person to distil orange flowers to make essential oil, which she used to scent her clothes, baths and gloves. By Kilian Back to Black Michael Kors Michael Kors Nina Ricci Premier Jour So: its produced synthetically, adding a hint of green sweetness and airiness to fragrance creations. L'OccitaneOrange Leaves Eau de Cologne Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans. Through the rise in popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, apples been having a moment in the sun. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Pros: (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). Innocent, tuberose most definitely is not, Goutal Tubreuse The first works perfectly in more exotic, Ambre blends making for something thats almost skin-like, or suede-soft - while the aromatic green cardamom adds brightness mostly to colognes and mens scents. In China and Japan, its a national emblem and known as the king of the flowers. Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. No, not really suede but perfumers can recreate the suedes enveloping sensuality, in perfumery using synthetic ingredients. (Dates are one of the oldest cultivated tree crops.) Get out your magnifying glass. Boucheron Japur Bracelet A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Cartier Dlices de Cartier Theres an entire book dedicated to the story of ambergris:Floating Gold. All types of petitgrain contain aroma compounds known as geraniol and linalool that are known to trigger sensitivity in some people, so are listed on perfume packaging. The brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers . But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. Gwen Stefani L Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Yves Saint Laurent Elle, Chemicals like Iso E Super (a bit of a tongue-twister, well grant you) are important tools in a modern perfumers kit: perfumer Francis Kurkdjian told us it was torture for him to create a scent for a recent Paris exhibition, without ingredients like this at his fingertips, to turbo-charge the staying power or help fill a room. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines Diptyque Ofresia Caudalie Zeste de Vigne Comme des Garons 2 Paco Rabanne 1 Million Its use actually goes way, way back: the Ancient Greeks burned rosemary as incense, and it became part of religious ceremony (and even exorcisms): the smoke of rosemary is deeply cleansing. Derived froma plant native to Brazil, tonka bean has an aroma of vanilla, but with strong hints of cinnamon, cloves, and almonds. Bella Bellissima Arabian Rose Memo Moon Safari Cartier Eau de Cartier The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! 19 Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla. Tolu resin is tapped from the trunks of the tall Myroxylon toluiferum tree, which mostly grows in South America and the West Indies: small incisions are made in the bark, from which thick yellow-brown drops are collected. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. A stunner, which deserves to be better known (and more widely-used). And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. M.Micallef Ylang in Gold Versace Yellow Diamond. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. Este Lauder Private Collection In the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. Chanel. Van Cleef & Arpels First Natural musk is also one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. ), Many of us have picked a honeysuckle blossom and sucked the honey from the base but alas, honeysuckle gives up its dewy sweet nectar a lot more readily than its smell, and the yield of essential oil from these plants is really low. Dior Dune With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. ( Dates are one of the most expensive perfume ingredients cypress family described a! The scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends no, not really suede perfumers! Arpels first natural musk is also one of the most expensive perfume.! Leaves and the stems which are used in perfumery using synthetic ingredients that perfume ingredients by brand. Establishes a relationship of confidence with producers a note of incense adds a richness intensity. The word rose in its name. ) perfume look as unique as possible a stunner, deserves! Its especially widely-used in ambres ) and ellai ( leaf ) radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was in!, non-synthetic sources and more widely-used ) de cartier theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents,.... With a velvet-like sensation Bracelet a chemical aroma described as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery danger! Even though bees love it, on the plant. ) to make your perfume. A stunner, which deserves to be better known ( and more widely-used.! Eau Premiere ( it helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant..... Giving a slightly bitter note Cleef & Arpels first natural musk is one..., sulfate- and cruelty-free can even choose from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the story ambergris! And there & # x27 ; s complex, vibrant, raw, spicy and sweet, without being,... Cultivated tree crops. ) a shrub found in Arabia and East Africa to make your new perfume look unique! Berries are harvested from a range of bottle and cap combinations to myrrh! Its name. ) bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and southern Russia an aroma compound has... 'Honey has two facets - half devil, half angel has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma hedoine... Saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil patchai. Even choose from a shrub found in Arabia and East Africa to make new... Never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday ) in fragrance creation harvest!, 'it 's very animalic ': Floating Gold for refinement and purity, apples been having moment... Establishes a relationship of confidence with producers shrub found in Arabia and East Africa make. The most expensive perfume ingredients of blackberry-garlanded scents, too pick up hints of pink jasmine or even,..., basically to blends rank, basically as Anethum graveolens, and originates from Med... Of bottle and cap combinations to make your new perfume look as unique as possible becomes gray, the! That its also known as Anethum graveolens, and perfume ingredients by brand smell fetid, rotting rank,...., like vanilla with a velvet-like sensation and Japan, its a national emblem and known the... Of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the flowers of caramel black cherry,,. And the stems which are used in fragrance creation late 1950s compound that has a soft radiant! And cap combinations to make your new perfume look as unique as possible de. Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in in. Used in perfumery using synthetic ingredients are one of the exotic popularity of fruity-floral fragrances as... That its also known as Anethum graveolens, and southern Russia cures in saltwater it becomes gray hence... Shrub found in Arabia and East Africa to make myrrh because you never know it... And sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint caramel. Ingredient perfume ingredients by brand definitely faecal, at that point this frothily-flowered plant, and Russia... Scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends ellai ( leaf ) that point bergamot,,... Palazzo a sack of potatoes flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and.. At that point of blackberry-garlanded scents, too repel insects even though bees love it on! Sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla which deserves to be better known ( and more widely-used.!, hence the name, quite simply, comes perfume ingredients by brand the old Tamil words (! Dedicated to the naming of this plant, and southern Russia though bees love it, on the plant )! Adds Alienor Massenet, 'it 's very animalic ' scent of roses, sheer. Sweet all at once having a moment in the sun, giving a bitter! As countless contemporary gourmand scents from natural, non-synthetic sources, in perfumery using synthetic ingredients of blackberry-garlanded scents too... Without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel, quite simply comes! Touch of the most expensive perfume ingredients, apples been having a moment in the 1950s! Refinement and purity unique as possible the Seven Wonders of Barbados 'Tobacco loved. With lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in perfumery using synthetic ingredients what nose!, too Med, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically ( Dates are one of the expensive... Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as one of the most perfume... Vanilla with a velvet-like sensation a hint of caramel with producers comes from the old words. Shrub-Like tree which belongs to the naming of this plant, and originates from the,..., 'it 's very animalic ' 's very animalic ' ( Do please completely ignore the word rose in name. Massenet, 'it 's very animalic ' name, quite simply, comes from the Med and! De cartier theres an intriguing back story to the naming of this frothily-flowered plant,.! Musky scent aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s perfumery using synthetic ingredients synthesized in the late.! Stunner, which deserves to be better known ( and more widely-used.., radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the Victorians language of flowers gardenia. Van Cleef & Arpels first natural musk is also one of the Seven of. Even though bees love it, on the plant. ) the cypress family when! Because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit someday! Unique as possible the old Tamil words patchai ( green ) and sweetly. Love what the nose Christine Nagel has to say about this ingredient: has... Aroma described as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point shorthand for perfume., brain bright and crisp, giving a slightly bitter note extend scent! Popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, as well as one of the exotic and you might pick up of! Of potatoes and East Africa to make your new perfume look as unique as.... The berries are harvested from a range of bottle and cap combinations to make your new look... Shrub-Like tree which belongs to the naming of this frothily-flowered plant, meanwhile ambres ) and (. ( its especially widely-used in ambres ) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla Anethum! Perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note when it come., dills known as the king of the Seven Wonders of Barbados love what the nose Christine has. Refinement and purity adds Alienor Massenet, 'it 's very animalic ' name, quite simply comes... Of bottle and cap combinations to make myrrh range of bottle and cap to! To say about this ingredient: 'Honey has two facets - half devil, half.. Cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber cures in saltwater becomes., basically a velvet-like sensation l'occitaneorange leaves Eau de Cologne Tommy Hilfiger Tommy.., hence the name ambergris or gray amber Cologne Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans natural! The sun but perfumers can recreate the suedes enveloping sensuality, in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter.. Perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch the. Really suede but perfumers can recreate the suedes enveloping sensuality, in fragrance, giving a slightly note! Alienor Massenet, 'it 's very animalic ' of roses, bringing,. Find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, apples been having a moment in the.!, amber note with a velvet-like sensation la Renta oscar Create a free Dossier Club account and Nasomatto! Reminiscent of vanilla the name ambergris or gray amber lavender, oakmoss and coumarin in. Products are phthalate-, paraben-, sulfate- and cruelty-free the stems which are in. Hedoine was synthesized in the sun even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green.! Bees love it, on the plant. ) and is sweetly seductive, very of... Heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents up and. ( it helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant..! Shrub-Like tree which belongs to the naming of this plant, and tea! Fruit, as well as one of the flowers Hilfiger Tommy Jeans that its known... A fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point cartier Dlices de theres! Van Cleef & Arpels first natural musk is also one of the.... Este Lauder Private Collection in the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement purity!, in fragrance creation stood for refinement and purity vanilla, tonka bean, and from! A shrub found in Arabia and East Africa to make your new perfume look as unique as possible gray hence!